A commission – a blouse back, a dupatta border or a pallu on the customer’s own cloth – is the most common Kasuti order, and the easiest to cost wrongly. This lesson walks through one quote from the first message to the written agreement, using the method from Pricing your time.

What you’ll learn

  • How to turn a customer’s idea into a design you can count and time.
  • How to estimate hours from motif units instead of guessing.
  • How to write a quote with a deadline, an advance and a validity period.
  • How to handle changes after the quote is agreed.

Step by step

  1. Get the facts. What is the garment or piece? Whose cloth? The size of the area to embroider (in centimetres)? The colours? The date they need it by? Any photos they like?
  2. See the cloth. Check the weave: can it be counted? Fine silk, stretchy or very dense cloth may need waste canvas, the net method (Volume 1, Module 2, Kasuti on a garment: the net method), or a different design. Note any risk.
  3. Draw a design you can count. Chart the motifs on graph paper. Mark which areas are Gavanti, Murgi, Neyge and Menthe.
  4. Break it into units. Count how many buti, how many border repeats, how many Neyge blocks.
  5. Time the units. Use your stitch log: minutes per buti, per repeat, per Neyge block. Multiply by the counts.
  6. Add the rest of the hours. Design and charting, marking and tacking, finishing, pressing, a check, photos and packing. Add a safety allowance for the unexpected – a share such as 10–15 % of stitching time is a common habit.
  7. Price it. Materials (M) + hours × your rate (H × R) + overheads (O), then your margin, as in Pricing your time. If the customer brings their own cloth, M is only thread, lining and finishing items.
  8. Write the quote. Describe the design (attach the chart), the stitches, the colours, the price, the advance, the delivery date, how long the quote is valid, and what happens if they cancel or change the design.
  9. Take the advance before you start, and give a receipt.
A blouse-back chart split into units: A, a border of 14 stepped repeats; B, three buti; C, one Neyge centre. A table adds the stitching minutes, 14a + 3b + c, to 90 minutes of charting, 60 of tacking and marking, 90 of finishing and pressing, 30 of photos and packing, and a safety allowance of 10–15 % of stitching; the total divided by 60 gives H, the hours
The worked example as units and minutes – letters only, no money.
Worked example: a blouse back

A customer wants a Kasuti blouse back on her own cotton silk, with a temple-tower border and three small buti. She needs it in five weeks.

  • Units: 1 border of 14 repeats, 3 buti, 1 small Neyge centre.
  • From the log: one border repeat = a minutes, one buti = b minutes, one Neyge centre = c minutes.
  • Stitching time = 14a + 3b + c minutes. Convert to hours.
  • Other hours: charting 1.5, tacking and marking 1, finishing and pressing 1.5, photos and packing 0.5.
  • Safety allowance: about 10–15 % of stitching time.
  • H = stitching hours + other hours + allowance.
  • Price = (M + H × R + O) × (1 + margin %).
  • Timeline check: how many hours a week can you really give this order, alongside your other work? Five weeks × that figure must be more than H. If not, change the date or the design now.
Tips, tricks and hacks
  • Keep a “unit sheet”: your minutes for every common motif and border. Quoting becomes quick and consistent.
  • Quote in a range for the first chat (“between X and Y depending on the design”), then a firm price once the chart is agreed.
  • Attach the chart to the quote, and get the customer to say “yes” to it in writing (a WhatsApp “approved” is a record).
  • Ask for the deadline early. Rush work disrupts everything else; if you accept it, quote the extra time it costs you.
  • Stitch a small test on a corner or seam allowance of their cloth if you are unsure the cloth can be counted.
  • Photograph the cloth when it arrives, both sides, with any marks, before you touch it.
  • Give a progress photo halfway; customers who see progress don’t chase.
  • Keep the advance and balance as separate entries in your order book.
Problems and how to fix them

The customer changes the design halfway.

  1. Stop and re-quote the change in writing before you continue.
  2. Offer a cheaper change if possible (a colour swap instead of a new motif).
  3. Prevention: the quote says changes after approval are re-priced.

The cloth turns out to be hard to count.

  1. Tell the customer at once and suggest the net method or a simpler design.
  2. Re-time and re-quote if needed.
  3. Prevention: see and test the cloth before quoting.

You underestimated the hours.

  1. Honour the quote this time; it is your error.
  2. Record the real hours in your log.
  3. Prevention: build from units and add the safety allowance.

The customer disappears after the advance.

  1. Follow up politely twice, with dates.
  2. Follow your written cancellation terms.
  3. Prevention: clear terms on the quote about collection and storage.

The deadline is impossible.

  1. Say so now, kindly, with the date you can do.
  2. Offer a smaller design that fits the time.
  3. Prevention: always check hours available against H before agreeing a date.
Mistakes to avoid
  • Quoting from a photo without seeing the cloth.
  • Agreeing a price before the chart.
  • Starting without an advance.
  • No written terms for changes, cancellation or late collection.
  • Forgetting charting time: designing a custom chart is skilled work.
What to ask your CA, lawyer or the office
  • CA: “How should I record advances and balances, and what receipt or invoice must I give?”
  • CA: “Does tax apply to job work on a customer’s own cloth differently from selling a finished piece?”
  • Lawyer: “Are my written cancellation and refund terms fair and clear enough? What happens to cloth that is never collected?”

Note: rules on tax, registration and export change. Check the current position with a chartered accountant or the office named before you act – this lesson tells you what to ask, not the answer.

Check yourself
  • Do you see and test the cloth before you quote?
  • Do you build hours from motif units?
  • Does every quote include the chart, the date, the advance and the change terms?
  • Do you check your available hours against the deadline?
  • Do you take the advance before you start?