Lambani embroidery is the bold, mirror-studded needlework of the Lambani (Banjara) women of Karnataka. Around Sandur in Ballari district it has its own GI. It is the opposite of Kasuti’s quiet restraint – and the two now meet in the same hands. This lesson shows you how to recognise it.
What you’ll learn
- Who the Lambani are, and where Sandur Lambani embroidery is made.
- Its stitches, colours and embellishments.
- How it compares with Kasuti.
- How to use and buy it respectfully.
The makers
The Lambani (also Lambada or Banjara) are a community with a history of travelling trade across India, now settled in villages called tandas in many states. Lambani women traditionally embroidered their own dress – skirts, blouses, head cloths – and dowry pieces such as bags and quilts. Around Sandur, the craft is reported to have been revived and organised through a local craft society, and Sandur Lambani embroidery is reported to hold a GI.
What it looks like
- Ground: dark or deep-coloured cotton, often patched together from pieces.
- Stitches: many – cross stitch, running and darning stitch, herringbone, chain, interlacing, and quilting.
- Appliqué and patchwork: layers of coloured cloth.
- Embellishments: small mirrors, cowrie shells, coins, beads and tassels.
- Colours: bright red, yellow, orange, green and white.
Lambani and Kasuti
| Point | Lambani | Kasuti |
|---|---|---|
| Feel | Bold, layered, textured | Fine, flat, restrained |
| Stitches | Many, mixed freely | Four, strictly counted |
| Extras | Mirrors, shells, coins | None |
| Back | No rule | As neat as the front |
Both share cross stitch and darning, both are women’s home crafts, and both like bright thread on a dark ground. Projects such as Banjara Kasuti have trained Lambani women in Kasuti, so the two traditions now meet. For more, see Kasuti: Learn the Craft, Module 9.
Using Lambani in garments
Lambani is heavy and textured, so it works best as a panel rather than over a whole garment: a yoke, a jacket back, a pocket, a belt or the hem of a skirt. Back it with a firm lining, and keep the rest of the garment plain so the work stands out. Buy panels from makers’ groups, credit them, and never cut through a mirror.
In more depth: dress, dowry and meaning
Traditional Lambani dress was heavy with embroidery and silver jewellery. The skirt (phetiya), the backless blouse (kanchali) and the head cloth (ghoongat or chantiya) were all embroidered, and a woman’s needlework was a sign of her skill. Terms vary by region; these are as reported.
Mirrors are traditionally said to ward off the evil eye. Coins and shells were also a way of carrying small wealth. Patterns were passed between women of a family and often worked without drawing, by eye and count.
Today
Fewer women wear full traditional dress daily, but the embroidery is made for sale as bags, cushion covers, jackets, panels and wall hangings, and is used by designers on modern garments.
In more depth: the stitches, one by one
- Cross stitch – small crosses, often in rows and blocks, like Kasuti’s Menthe.
- Darning and running stitch – lines and fills worked by counting threads.
- Herringbone – a crossed zigzag, often used to hold down patch edges.
- Chain stitch – loops for outlines.
- Buttonhole or blanket stitch – around mirrors and patch edges.
- Interlacing – a thread woven through a base row of stitches.
- Quilting stitches – long running stitches through layers.
Lambani embroiderers often combine five or more of these in one piece, with appliqué and mirrors layered on top. The result is rich and heavy.
Tips for learners and teachers
- Look for real mirrors. Hand-held mirrors (shisha) are held in place by a ring of stitching, not glue.
- Check the variety of stitches. Real Lambani mixes several stitch types in one piece.
- Use panels, not whole garments, when adding Lambani to modern clothes: a yoke, a back panel or pocket.
- Line it. Heavy Lambani panels need a lining and a firm base so they do not pull lighter cloth.
- For teachers: Lambani is a good way to teach mirror work and free combination of stitches after learners have done strict counted work.
Common misunderstandings
“Lambani is the same as Kutch mirror work.”
They share mirrors and bright colours, but they are different communities and styles.
“Lambani is free-form, so anything goes.”
It mixes stitches freely, but within its own traditions of pattern, colour and layout.
“Printed mirror-look fabric is Lambani.”
No. Lambani is hand embroidery with real mirrors and many stitches.
For earning and teaching
For earning: buy panels directly from makers’ groups, credit the makers, and describe the piece truthfully. Never pass off machine copies as Lambani.
For teaching: pair a Lambani session with a Kasuti session. The contrast teaches both crafts at once.
Sources and uncertain points
- The Sandur Lambani GI is reported as 2008 in some sources and 2010 in others; check the GI Registry.
- The craft society that organised the Sandur revival is reported as Sandur Kushala Kala Kendra; not checked for this lesson.
- Kannada and Lambani names for garments are as reported and vary by region.
- Meanings of mirrors and coins are traditional.
- Comparison with Kasuti: the D&D Kasuti ebook.
Check yourself
- Do you know where Sandur is?
- Can you name four Lambani embellishments?
- Can you list three differences from Kasuti?
- Do you know how to check a real mirror?