• Beads and sequins: sew with a beading needle and strong thread; secure every few beads with a back stitch so one broken thread doesn’t lose them all.
• Gota patti: woven metallic ribbon (Rajasthan’s specialty) folded and appliquéd into shapes.
• Lace: machine or crochet lace along edges and sleeves.
• Appliqué and patchwork: shapes of fabric sewn onto the blouse.
• Piping: see Module 6, Piping, facings, borders and lining.
• Studs and stones: pressed or glued on; check washability.
• Patches: embroidered motifs sewn on, quick for fusion blouses.
• Fringes: bead or thread fringes along a hem or sleeve.
• Potli buttons: small fabric or metal buttons for backs.

• Mirror work is a living tradition of Kutch, Rajasthan, Sindh and the Banjara/Lambani communities, each with its own stitch and style.
• Latkans began as practical tie-ends and have become a design feature of their own.
• Gota patti is central to Rajasthani festive dress.

Planning trims on a blouse

• Weight: add up the weight of mirrors, beads and latkans. Heavy trims on a light fabric pull and sag; back them with interfacing.
• Placement: keep trims out of seam allowances and away from the underarm and the inside of the arm, where they rub.
• Order: mirrors and embroidery before cutting and lining; dori and latkans after the back is finished; beads last.
• Comfort: anything with a hard back (mirrors, stones) must be covered by the lining.
• Washing: make heavy latkans detachable.

Control

• Keep the same tension all round a mirror; one tight stitch tilts it.
• Twist cords evenly and at the same speed so the twist is regular.
• Wrap tassel necks tightly but not so tight that the thread cuts the strands.

Variations

• Latkan styles: thread tassels, bead drops, fabric potlis, pompoms, shells, bells (ghungroo) and metal charms.
• Mirror shapes: round, square, diamond and teardrop; tiny mirrors for fine work.
• Imitation mirror: plastic or metal discs; lighter and safer, less sparkle.
• Dori finishes: a bead or knot at each end, or a woven slider to adjust.
• Left-handed: work the shisha edge stitch in the opposite direction round the mirror; the result looks the same.

• Wax your thread for beads; it tangles less.
• Use a frame for mirror work; the fabric must stay taut.
• Glue a mirror lightly with fabric glue to hold it while framing (optional).
• Make latkans in pairs so they match.
• Keep latkans light on silk.
• Use the blouse fabric for a rouleau dori that matches perfectly.
• Heat-seal synthetic cord ends carefully to stop fraying (adults only, away from the blouse).
• Detachable latkans on a small hook can be removed for washing.
• Professionals sew dori ends through a reinforced area, never a single layer.
• Space mirrors evenly: mark positions with chalk dots first.
• Test sequin colours under the light where the blouse will be worn.

The mirror falls out.

1. Re-work the frame tighter, then the edge stitch.
2. Add a second frame on the diagonal.
3. Prevention: make the frame snug before the edge stitch.

The edge stitch looks uneven.

1. Unpick and re-work with stitches at equal spacing.
2. Mark eight points round the mirror first.
3. Prevention: practise on a scrap first.

The twisted cord unwinds.

1. Knot both ends tightly and add a dab of fabric glue.
2. Bind the ends with thread.
3. Prevention: twist more before folding.

The tassel is lopsided.

1. Trim the bottom while hanging.
2. Re-wrap the neck evenly.
3. Prevention: wrap evenly round the card.

Beads come off.

1. Re-sew with a back stitch every few beads.
2. Use stronger thread.
3. Prevention: secure often; check after wearing.

The fabric puckers under trims.

1. Release and re-sew with looser tension.
2. Add a backing fabric.
3. Prevention: work in a frame with a backing.

Gota tarnishes.

1. Clean gently with a soft dry brush.
2. Replace tarnished sections.
3. Prevention: store with tissue, away from damp and perfume.

• Repeat a colour: pick latkan and dori colours from the saree’s border or pallu.
• Repeat a shape: a mango motif on the blouse back with mango-shaped latkans.
• Balance: heavy latkans need a simple back; a worked back needs simple latkans.
• Scale: small mirrors for fine silk, larger ones for cotton and folk looks.
• Sound and movement: ghungroo and shell latkans move and chime; lovely for dance and sangeet, less so for the office.
• One trim family per blouse usually looks better than many: mirrors and thread, or zari and pearls, not all at once.

Sourcing

Trims, mirrors, gota and beads are sold in trimming shops in every city; in Bengaluru, the older markets are well stocked. Buy a little extra of anything you may need to match later, and keep the shop’s name and the trim’s number.

Mistakes

• Heavy latkans on light fabric.
• Mirror work without a frame.
• One long thread through a whole row of beads.
• Sewing dori ends through one layer.

Myths

• “Mirror work is only for casual wear.” Fine mirror work is festive and bridal too.
• “Latkans must be bought.” They are easy to make and match perfectly.
• “Trims can go on after the blouse is finished.” Heavy trims are better added before lining.

1. Three doris: twisted, rouleau and braided.
2. Pair of latkans with beads.
3. Five mirrors in a row on a scrap.
4. Trim sampler: beads, sequins, gota and lace on one scrap.

As a hobby: latkans and doris are quick, colourful and make lovely gifts.

For earning: custom latkans to match a blouse are a popular add-on; a box of ready samples helps customers choose.

For teaching: a latkan class suits beginners and children (with blunt needles and no small beads for the very young).

• Remove detachable latkans before washing.
• Hand-wash mirror and bead work gently; never machine-wash.
• Store embroidered and trimmed blouses folded in cotton or tissue.

• Can you make a twisted dori?
• Can you make a tassel?
• Can you attach a mirror with a frame?
• Do you secure beads often?

• Dori: a tie cord.
• Latkan: a tassel or hanging ornament.
• Shisha: a small mirror; also mirror work.
• Gota patti: metallic ribbon appliqué.
• Rouleau: a fabric tube.

• General embroidery practice.
• Teacher to check: the shisha stitch method (regions use different framing and edge stitches) and the tassel steps.