For the anarkali, measure where the flare should start: from the neck point down to the under-bust or the waist.

• Fuller hips than bust (pear-shaped): the hip decides the width at the bottom; the bust decides the top. Give both; the tailor grades between them.
• Fuller bust than hips: the bust decides; an A-line or flared shape balances the fall.
• Straight figures: waist and hip close together; a straight kurta needs only small shaping.
• Petite: kurta length and slit height matter most. A knee-length kurta on a petite frame may need to stop above the knee to look in proportion; it is a choice.
• Tall: check the salwar length against footwear, and the sleeve length.
• Plus-size: the hip and the tummy round may both matter. If the fullest part is the tummy rather than the hip, give it as a separate “tummy” round.
• Pregnancy: elastic or drawstring waists, and an extra tummy round taken every few weeks (Module 6).
• Seated wearers: measure kurta length and slit height seated; slits at the side help a kurta lie flat on the lap.

• Measure kurta length with the footwear on if it is long, so it ends where you want when you are standing in it.
• Dot the hip line with a sticker at the side; measure waist to hip to the dot.
• Slit and pocket: if you want side-seam pockets, say so; the slit then starts below them.
• Bottom (mohri) check: slip your foot through a loop of tape at the size you plan. If it won’t pass the heel, it’s too small.
• Churidar gathers: say how many rings of gathers you like (few or many); it changes the extra length.
• Salwar waist: measure where you’ll actually tie it, which may not be the natural waist.
• Elastic or drawstring? Give the waist either way; the tailor works out the elastic.
• Use a kurta that fits (Module 6, Measuring other garments that fit) to check your numbers.
• Write the slit as “from waist” or “from hem”; both are used.
• Sleeve length on a kurta is often a little longer than on a blouse; measure for the style.

The kurta pulls across the hips when I sit.

1. The hip round was taken too high or too tight; re-measure at the fullest part, seen from the side.
2. Start the slits higher, at or just below the hip line.
3. Prevention: give the waist-to-hip length so the width sits in the right place.

The salwar won’t go over my foot.

1. The bottom is too small; give the heel-and-instep round as well as the ankle.
2. Ask for a small slit or zip at the ankle.
3. Prevention: test with a loop of tape before ordering.

The churidar bunches above the knee.

1. The thigh or knee measurement was too small, so the fabric is pulling up. Re-measure.
2. Ask the tailor to cut it on the bias (a diagonal grain), as churidars traditionally are.
3. Prevention: give thigh, knee, calf and ankle for every churidar.

The kurta is shorter than I expected.

1. Check where the length was measured from: neck point at the front, over the bust.
2. Ask for a deeper hem allowance next time.
3. Prevention: measure against a kurta you like.

The anarkali flare starts too low.

1. Give the flare start length: neck point to under-bust or waist.
2. Choose a style with a defined waist seam.
3. Prevention: point to where you want it in the mirror and measure to that point.

The slit shows more than I want.

1. Lower the slit start.
2. Ask for a small overlap or a hidden press stud.
3. Prevention: test the height by sitting and walking.

The salwar waist is too loose with elastic.

1. Give the real waist; the tailor sizes the elastic.
2. Ask for a drawstring and elastic together.
3. Prevention: don’t add ease to waist numbers yourself.

• Taking the hip at the hip bones instead of the fullest part.
• Forgetting the heel when giving the bottom.
• “Churidar length is my leg length.” It is, but the tailor adds extra for the gathers. Don’t add it twice.
• “A loose kurta needs no measurements.” It still needs shoulder, length and the minimum hip width.

1. Full kurta set: take every kurta measurement, then check against a kurta you own.
2. Salwar set: take waist, hip, length, bottom and heel round.
3. Churidar extra: add thigh, knee, calf and ankle, on both legs.

As a hobby: a straight kurta is one of the best first garments to sew; these numbers are all you need.

For earning: kurta-salwar sets are everyday orders. A clear card with slit height and bottom saves fitting time.

For teaching: teach the hip line from the side, using the mirror; it is the most often wrong.

• Men’s kurtas use the shirt measurements plus length and slit (Module 4, Men’s trousers and kurtas).
• Children’s kurtas need chest, shoulder, sleeve, length and hip; add growth room in the hem and side seams (Module 5).
• Unisex kurtas are usually cut on a men’s block; anyone may wear one. Women may want to add bust and shoulder to apex for a better fit.

1. Which measurement places the hip width in a kurta? Waist to hip, at the side.
2. What must a salwar bottom pass over? The heel and instep, foot pointed.
3. Which extra rounds does a churidar need? Thigh, knee, calf and ankle.
4. Where should a kurta slit usually start? At or just below the hip line, so you can sit and walk.

Dressmakers abroad may call a kurta a tunic and a churidar a fitted legging. The measurements are the same. Give the slit height and the salwar bottom clearly; these are often new to them.

• Did you measure the hip at the fullest part, seen from the side?
• Did you give waist to hip?
• Did you say where the slit should start, and from where?
• Will the salwar bottom pass over your heel?

• Mohri (bottom): the opening at the ankle of a salwar or pant.
• Churidar: a close-fitting pant, cut long so it gathers at the ankle.
• Anarkali: a kurta fitted to the under-bust or waist, flaring below.
• Slit: the side opening at the hem of a kurta.
• Kali: a flared panel used in anarkalis and some kurtas.

• General tailoring practice in India.
• Whether slit height is given from the waist or the hem differs between tailors. Teacher to check the studio’s card.
• Churidars are traditionally cut on the bias; some modern ones use stretch fabric on the straight grain.