A shirt looks simple, but a good one fits at the collar, the shoulders and the cuffs all at once. This lesson gives the full list of shirt measurements, and how to take them. The same set is the starting point for kurtas, sherwanis and jackets in the next two lessons. Anyone may wear a shirt; this lesson uses the men’s block because that is how most shirts are cut.

A man in a fitted T-shirt, front and back, with twelve numbered shirt measurements: M1 neck, M2 chest, M3 stomach, M4 waist, M5 seat, M6 shoulder, M7 sleeve length from the shoulder point to the wrist, M8 bicep, M9 wrist, M10 shirt length from the collar base, M11 back width and M12 armhole
The twelve shirt measurements, M1 to M12, taken over a thin vest or fitted T-shirt.

What you’ll learn

  • The twelve shirt measurements and where each goes.
  • How to take the collar so it buttons comfortably.
  • Chest, stomach and waist: why menswear takes all three.
  • How fit (slim, regular, relaxed) changes what the tailor adds.

The measurements

  1. Neck (collar): round the base of the neck, where the collar sits, over the Adam’s apple. Slip one finger under the tape. Shirt collars in India and Europe are often sold by this number in centimetres (e.g. 40), and in the UK and US in inches (e.g. 15¾).
  2. Chest: round the fullest part, under the arms and over the shoulder blades, arms down, tape level. Breathe normally.
  3. Stomach: round the fullest part of the belly, which may be above, at or below the navel.
  4. Waist: at the natural waist, or where trousers sit (say which).
  5. Seat (hip): round the fullest part of the seat. A shirt worn untucked must pass over it.
  6. Shoulder: across the back, shoulder point to shoulder point, following the curve. A helper is needed.
  7. Sleeve length: from the shoulder point, over a slightly bent elbow, to the wrist bone. Some tailors measure from the centre back neck; say which.
  8. Bicep: round the fullest part of the upper arm, relaxed.
  9. Wrist (cuff): round the wrist bone. Say if you wear a watch on that arm; the cuff needs a little more.
  10. Shirt length: at the back, from the base of the collar (the nape) to where you want it to end. Tucked shirts are longer than untucked ones.
  11. Back width: across the shoulder blades, armpit crease to armpit crease.
  12. Armhole: round the top of the arm, close under the armpit and over the shoulder point.

Fit, and who adds the room

Give body measurements, and tell the tailor the fit you want: slim, regular or relaxed. The tailor adds the room (ease) for that fit. Don’t add it yourself. If you are giving the measurements of a shirt that already fits (Module 6), say so: they already include ease.

Measure over a thin vest or T-shirt, never over another shirt. For a shirt you’ll wear tucked in, wear the trousers too, so the length can be checked at the waistband.

Shirt styles and what changes
Style Most important numbers
Formal shirt Neck, chest, shoulder, sleeve, wrist
Casual or untucked Chest, seat, length, shoulder
Half-sleeve Bicep and sleeve length to mid-upper arm
Slim fit Chest, stomach, waist, bicep, back width
Band collar (Chinese or mandarin) Neck: exact
Short kurta-shirt As shirt, plus slit height
On different bodies
  • Broad chest or athletic build: chest and back width are large compared with the waist. A slim fit needs both; a standard block may pull across the back.
  • Fuller stomach: give stomach separately. The tailor can add room at the front only, so the shirt doesn’t tent at the back.
  • Slim: chest and stomach close together; the shirt may need back darts to avoid billowing.
  • Tall: sleeve and shirt length run longer than charts; tucked shirts need extra length to stay in.
  • Short: sleeve and length shorter; check the collar point length suits the neck.
  • Older bodies: a rounded upper back needs a longer back length and possibly more back width. Measure in natural posture.
  • Seated wearers: measure length seated; shorter at the front and longer at the back avoids bunching; sleeve length with the arms in the pushing position.
  • Women wearing shirts: use the women’s bust and shoulder-to-apex (Module 2), or a men’s-style shirt with a looser fit; both are fine.
Tips, tricks and hacks
  • Collar comfort test: two fingers flat inside the buttoned collar of a shirt that fits. One finger under the tape when measuring the body gives about the same.
  • Bend the elbow slightly for sleeve length, so the cuff doesn’t ride up when you reach.
  • Watch side: add room to that cuff or ask for two buttons to adjust.
  • Measure chest on a relaxed breath out; men often puff the chest without meaning to.
  • Take stomach seated as a check if you sit most of the day; it can be larger.
  • Shirt length for tucking: it should reach well below the seat crease at the back.
  • Use a shirt that fits to check shoulder and sleeve; laid flat, they are easy to measure.
  • Measure both arms for sleeve length; one is often longer.
  • Collar in cm and inches: 40 cm is about 15¾ in; divide cm by 2.54.
  • Say how you wear it: top button done, or open. A collar that is never buttoned can be a touch looser.
Problems and how to fix them

The collar is too tight when buttoned.

  1. Re-measure with one finger under the tape, at the base of the neck.
  2. Ask for the button to be moved out a little on the collar band.
  3. Prevention: give the measurement of a collar that fits, laid flat, as a check.

The buttons pull across the stomach.

  1. Give a separate stomach round.
  2. Choose a regular fit rather than slim.
  3. Prevention: measure stomach every time, as it changes more than chest.

The shoulder seam sits down the arm.

  1. The shoulder is too wide; re-measure point to point with the points dotted.
  2. Measure a shirt whose shoulders fit.
  3. Prevention: use the arm-lift test to find the shoulder point.

The cuffs ride up when I reach forward.

  1. Lengthen the sleeve slightly; measure with the elbow bent.
  2. Check the armhole isn’t too high or tight.
  3. Prevention: say how you move in the shirt (driving, typing, lifting).

The shirt comes untucked.

  1. Lengthen the shirt.
  2. Choose a curved hem that is longer at the back.
  3. Prevention: measure length at the back to below the seat crease.

The back balloons above the belt.

  1. Ask for back darts or a slimmer back.
  2. Check waist and back width numbers.
  3. Prevention: give waist as well as chest for formal shirts.

The sleeves are tight round the upper arm.

  1. Give the bicep measurement, relaxed.
  2. Ask for a little more room at the armhole.
  3. Prevention: athletic arms need the bicep on every card.
Beginner mistakes and myths
  • Giving a ready-made collar size instead of a measurement.
  • Chest measured on a held breath or over a thick vest.
  • “Stomach and waist are the same.” In menswear, they are different numbers.
  • Sleeve length with a straight arm for a shirt you’ll drive or type in.
Practice drills
  1. Collar three ways: body measurement, a shirt collar laid flat, and the size label. Do they agree?
  2. Chest, stomach, waist: take all three; note the order from largest to smallest.
  3. Sleeve two ways: from the shoulder point, and from the centre back neck. Note both.
As a hobby, for earning, for teaching

As a hobby: a well-fitting shirt is one of the most satisfying garments to sew; collar and sleeve are where the skill shows.

For earning: corporate and uniform orders need fast, consistent shirt measuring. A fixed order of work, and a printed card, keep teams consistent (Module 8).

For teaching: teach collar and shoulder on a volunteer first; they are the measurements learners most fear.

Boys’ shirts
  • Take height, chest, shoulder, sleeve and length; neck only for collared formal shirts.
  • Collars on young boys’ shirts should be comfortable, never tight: add a finger more than for adults.
  • Build growth room into the sleeve (a deeper cuff hem) and the length (Module 5, Children’s garments and growth room).
  • School uniform shirts: check the school’s rules on length and tucking.
Quick quiz (with answers)
  1. How is the neck measured for a collar? Round the base of the neck, one finger under the tape.
  2. Why take chest, stomach and waist? They are different rounds; the stomach often decides how buttons sit.
  3. How should the arm be for sleeve length? Slightly bent at the elbow.
  4. Where is shirt length measured? At the back, from the base of the collar to the hem.
For readers abroad

US shirt-makers often give sleeve length from the centre back neck to the wrist (for example “34 in”), while Indian and UK tailors usually measure from the shoulder point. The two numbers are very different. Always say which you used. Collar sizes are in inches in the UK and US, in centimetres in India and Europe (Module 7, Size charts and size conversion).

Check yourself
  • Did you measure the neck with one finger under the tape?
  • Did you take chest, stomach and waist separately?
  • Was the elbow slightly bent for sleeve length?
  • Did you say slim, regular or relaxed?
Key terms
  • Collar size: the neck measurement a shirt is sold by.
  • Yoke: the double layer across the shirt’s upper back.
  • Cuff: the band at the end of the sleeve.
  • Back width: armpit crease to armpit crease across the back.
  • Slim, regular, relaxed: how much room the shirt has beyond the body.
Sources and uncertain points
  • General tailoring practice. Collar sizes in cm are common on Indian labels, but brands differ (Module 7).
  • Sleeve length is measured from the shoulder point by many Indian tailors, and from the centre back neck by many US shirt-makers. Teacher to check the studio’s method.
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