Silk and wool are both made of protein, which gives them a rich colour, a warm handle and a need for gentle care. Karnataka is at the heart of India’s silk, so this lesson starts close to home.
What you’ll learn
- How silk is made, from cocoon to yarn.
- India’s four kinds of silk, and where they come from.
- The main kinds of wool and hair fibres.
- Why protein fibres need different care from cotton.
Silk: the only natural filament
A silkworm spins a cocoon from one continuous thread, often hundreds of metres long. Several cocoons are softened in hot water and their filaments are reeled together into one yarn. The silk is coated in a natural gum (sericin); washing it off – degumming – gives silk its famous soft sheen.
India is commonly said to be the only country producing all four commercial silks:
- Mulberry silk – from cultivated silkworms fed on mulberry leaves. Smooth, white, the most common. Karnataka grows the most; Ramanagara near Bengaluru has one of the largest cocoon markets in Asia.
- Tussar (tasar) – a “wild” silk from forest silkworms in Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Odisha and Bihar. Golden-beige, textured.
- Muga – golden silk found only in Assam.
- Eri – a soft, warm, matte silk from Assam and the north-east, spun rather than reeled.
Module 4 covers the famous silk weaves made from these.
Spun silk is made from broken or waste filaments spun like cotton. It is softer and less shiny. Noil is the shortest waste, with a pebbly, matte look.
Wool and hair fibres
Wool comes from sheep; “hair” fibres come from goats, camels and rabbits. They trap air, so they are warm, and they absorb moisture without feeling wet.
| Fibre | From | Known for |
|---|---|---|
| Merino | Merino sheep | Fine, soft suiting and knits |
| Deccani wool | Local Deccan sheep | The coarse handwoven kambli blanket of Karnataka |
| Pashmina | Changthangi goats of Ladakh | Very fine, warm shawls |
| Mohair, angora | Goat, rabbit | Fluffy knits |
In Bengaluru, wool is mostly for suits, shawls and the odd winter jacket. Fine wool blends are common in men’s suiting.
In more depth: protein fibres and care
- Alkali harms them. Ordinary detergent and soap are alkaline. Use a mild, neutral detergent (often sold for silk or wool), or a gentle shampoo.
- Heat and rubbing felt wool. Hot water plus rubbing makes wool shrink and mat permanently.
- Sunlight yellows and weakens silk. Dry in shade.
- Insects love them. Moth larvae eat wool and silk, especially if stored soiled.
- Water spots on silk. Drops of water can leave marks on some silks; that is why many are dry-cleaned the first time.
- Perspiration weakens silk under the arms over time; lining helps.
Peace silk
“Ahimsa” or “peace” silk is made from cocoons after the moth has emerged, so the filament is broken and must be spun. Eri is naturally made this way. Claims vary; ask the seller how it is made.
Shahtoosh
Shahtoosh comes from the endangered Tibetan antelope. Trade in it is illegal in India. Anything offered as shahtoosh should be refused.
Tips for learners and teachers
- Feel the warmth. Silk feels cool at first, then quickly warms in your hand.
- Look for the scroop. Some silks make a faint rustle (“scroop”) when squeezed.
- Use fine pins. Thick pins leave holes in fine silk.
- Press with a cloth. Protect silk and wool from shine with a pressing cloth.
- For teachers: show a cocoon if you can get one from a sericulture shop or farm visit; nothing explains reeling better.
Common misunderstandings
“All silk is shiny.”
Tussar, eri, raw silk and noil are matte or textured. Sheen depends on the type and the weave.
“Wool is too hot for India.”
Fine, lightweight wool suiting breathes well and is worn year-round in many offices.
“Raw silk is silk that hasn’t been processed.”
In Indian shops, “raw silk” usually means a slubby, crisp silk fabric. Strictly, raw silk is silk still carrying its gum.
For earning and teaching
For earning: silk is the heart of bridal and festive orders. Knowing the four silks and their behaviour lets you advise on lining, pressing and care, and avoid damage.
For teaching: a visit to a Ramanagara-area reeling unit or a silk farm (where one welcomes visitors) is a memorable class trip.
Silk from Karnataka
Silk farming in Karnataka is commonly traced to the reign of Tipu Sultan in the 18th century, who is said to have brought silkworms and encouraged mulberry planting. Today the districts around Bengaluru – Ramanagara, Chikkaballapur, Kolar and Mandya among them – grow mulberry and rear silkworms, and the cocoons are sold at large government markets before reeling.
That is why Bengaluru has so many silk shops, and why silk sarees are part of almost every Kannada wedding. Mysore silk (Module 4) is woven from this local silk.
Silk and wool by garment
- Bridal and festive sarees: mulberry silk; tussar for a natural look.
- Blouses: silk with a cotton lining; raw silk or dupion for structure.
- Men’s festive kurtas and jackets: tussar, raw silk, silk jacquard.
- Suits: fine wool or wool blends in tropical weights for Bengaluru.
- Shawls: wool, pashmina, eri silk.
- Winter blouses and jackets: silk velvet or wool blends.
Sources and uncertain points
- “Only country producing all four commercial silks” is widely said; we have not confirmed it against an official source.
- Karnataka’s lead in mulberry silk and the size of the Ramanagara cocoon market are as reported by the state and the Central Silk Board; rankings can change.
- Filament lengths per cocoon vary widely by source; we have not given a figure.
Check yourself
- Can you name India’s four silks?
- Do you know what degumming does?
- Can you say why ordinary detergent harms silk and wool?
- Do you know why spun silk looks different from reeled silk?
Key terms
- Sericulture: silk farming.
- Reeling: unwinding cocoons into yarn.
- Sericin: the natural gum on silk.
- Spun silk, noil: silk made from broken filaments.
- Felting: wool fibres locking together permanently.