The business ladder is one way to grow in Kasuti. Expertise is another, and it can run alongside any rung, or with no business at all. A Kasuti expert is someone others turn to when a chart won’t close at the corner, an old piece needs recording, a learner needs teaching, or a buyer wants to know whether a piece is truly hand-worked. This lesson shows how mastery is built, and the ways an expert can serve the craft and its makers.

What you’ll learn

  • What mastery in Kasuti means, and how to practise towards it.
  • The roles an expert can take: teacher, judge, consultant, documenter, writer, speaker.
  • The awards, councils and exhibitions where Kasuti is recognised.
  • How to give back, and how to keep the craft honest.

What mastery looks like

A Kasuti master works all four stitches, Gavanti, Murgi, Neyge and Menthe, with even tension and no knots, on fine handloom and silk as well as coarse even-weave. Their backs are as clean as their fronts where the stitch allows. They can chart a motif from an old piece, scale it, mirror it and turn a corner without a single miscount. They know the motifs’ names and meanings, and say plainly when sources differ. They can look at a piece and tell hand work from machine work, and explain how.

Deliberate practice

  • One weakness at a time: Neyge tension, a mirrored corner, a fine count.
  • Practise on samples, not only on paid work.
  • Get feedback from a master or a teacher who checks the back.
  • Keep your stitch log (Module 11, Your stitch log: documenting your work).
  • Study old pieces in museums and family collections, and chart them.

Teaching others

Teaching is the surest test of mastery. Module 11, Teaching Kasuti, gives the teaching order, a ready syllabus, a first class, a six-week course, and notes for children, adults and left-handed learners. Module 13, Setting up a studio or class, covers light, seating, kits and safety. Start with one learner, then a small group. The D&D Fashion School and D&D workshops are examples of where such classes run.

Judging, certifying and consulting
  • Judging: craft competitions, exhibitions and design colleges invite experienced makers to judge. A Kasuti judge always turns the piece over and looks at counting, tension, the back, the motif and the finish.
  • Authenticating: buyers, shops and museums may ask whether a piece is hand-worked Kasuti (Module 8, Is it real? Spotting hand-worked Kasuti). State what you can see, and what you cannot be sure of.
  • Consulting: brands, designers and artisan groups need help with charts, stitch maps, timing and quality. See Kasuti as a Business (Volume 2), especially Working with clusters and cooperatives and its lesson Becoming a Kasuti expert in the trade.
  • Training trainers: government and NGO training centres need skilled trainers for new embroiderers.
Documenting, writing and speaking
  • Documenting: chart and photograph old pieces, with the owner’s permission and full credit (Module 12, Kasuti beyond fashion, on documenting heirlooms).
  • Writing: tested charts, articles, a book of motifs with their meanings and sources.
  • Speaking: talks at schools, colleges, clubs, museums and craft events; live demonstrations, front and back.
  • Your own names: name new motifs and methods yourself, descriptively. Never present another person’s method as yours.
Councils, awards and exhibitions

Check current details with each body before you apply or advise others.

  • Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), under the Ministry of Textiles, runs schemes for artisans and the national awards for master craftspersons, including the Shilp Guru awards.
  • Karnataka State Handicrafts Development Corporation (KSHDC) holds the Kasuti GI and works with Karnataka’s craftspeople; ask it about state recognition and its outlets.
  • Crafts Council of India and the Crafts Council of Karnataka are non-profit bodies that support craftspeople and hold exhibitions.
  • Craftmark, run by the All India Artisans and Craftworkers Welfare Association (AIACA), is a label for hand-made craft; ask whether and how it applies to your work.
  • Exhibitions and melas: craft bazaars in Bengaluru and other cities, Dilli Haat in Delhi and the Surajkund International Crafts Mela in Haryana are among the places where craftspeople show and sell.
  • Museums and archives: see Module 13, References and further reading.
Giving back to makers and apprentices
  • Take an apprentice and teach the whole craft, not only the quick stitches, with fair pay and a path up the grades.
  • Credit makers by name, where they agree, on labels and in talks.
  • Pay fairly and on time, and speak up for fair rates in the trade.
  • Record older makers’ knowledge, with permission, credit and, where you earn from it, a fair share.
  • Teach for free where learners cannot pay: schools, libraries, women’s groups.
Keeping the craft honest
  • Hand work is hand work. Never call machine or printed work Kasuti (Module 12, Mass production, done honestly).
  • Respect the GI and explain it accurately (Module 1, The GI tag).
  • Mark uncertain facts: say “sources differ” or “traditionally said” when a story or date is not certain.
  • Keep the counted grid and the clean back when you modernise (Module 10, Modernising Kasuti – without losing it).
  • Credit sources for charts and motifs drawn by others.
Questions for your CA, lawyer or the office
  • CA: “How should income from teaching, judging, consulting and writing be recorded?”
  • Lawyer: “How do I protect a book of charts, and use photos of heirloom pieces fairly?”
  • Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts): “What are the current rules and dates for the national awards?”
  • KSHDC: “What would becoming an authorised user of the Kasuti GI involve for me?”
Risks and mistakes
  • Stopping learning once called an expert.
  • Repeating stories as fact without checking.
  • Using makers’ knowledge without credit or a fair share.
  • Judging from the front only.
  • Saying yes to everything and burning out.
Worked example

A made-up example. After many years of stitching, Gowramma is asked by a family to look at their grandmother’s Chandrakali saree. She photographs it front and back, charts the border with their permission, and gives them a copy. A college invites her to judge a textile show; she turns every piece over. She trains as a trainer for a women’s group, takes one apprentice on fair, written terms, and writes a small book of motifs, crediting the families whose pieces she charted. She applies for a craft award with her best pieces, and says plainly in her talks which motif stories are uncertain.

Check yourself
  • Which one skill am I practising on purpose now?
  • Have I taught someone to stitch with a clean back?
  • Do I credit makers and sources every time?
  • Do I know where Kasuti is recognised, and whom to ask about awards?
  • What have I given back to makers this year?