The key numbers of Kasuti on one page: which fabric, how many strands, which needle, which stitch for which job, and how much thread to cut. Keep it open beside your hoop, or print it for your class.
What you’ll learn
- How to match fabric count, strands and needle size.
- The four stitches at a glance.
- The no-knot numbers and thread lengths.
- Where to find quick answers to common problems.
Fabric, strands and needle
| Fabric | One count is | Strands | Tapestry needle |
|---|---|---|---|
| 11-count Aida | 1 block | 3 | 22 |
| 14-count Aida | 1 block | 2 | 24 |
| 16-count Aida | 1 block | 2 | 24–26 |
| 18-count Aida | 1 block | 1–2 | 26 |
| 28-count evenweave or linen | 2 threads | 2 | 26 |
| Handloom cotton, khana | 2 threads | 1–2 | 24–26 |
| Fine silk | 2–3 threads | 1 | 26–28 |
| Garment + net | 1 net hole | 2–3 | To suit the garment cloth |
These are starting points. Always stitch a test: the stitch should cover the line without crowding the holes.
The four stitches
| Stitch | Reversible? | Best for | Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gavanti (double running) | Yes | Outlines, borders, structure | Beginner |
| Murgi (zig-zag running) | Yes | Zig-zag borders, bands | Beginner–intermediate |
| Menthe (cross) | Least | Small fills, texture | Intermediate |
| Neyge (weaving) | No | Large fills, woven look | Advanced |
The no-knot numbers
| Step | Number |
|---|---|
| Tail left at the start | 1–1.5 cm |
| Stop when thread left is | 8–10 cm |
| Weave back under | 2.5–5 cm of stitches |
| Check the count every | 10–15 stitches |
Thread lengths
| Thread | Cut to |
|---|---|
| Stranded cotton | 40–50 cm (about an arm’s length) |
| Silk, or fine cloth | 30–40 cm |
| Metallic or zari | 20–30 cm |
Estimating thread
- A skein of stranded cotton is usually 8 m of six strands. Used 2 strands at a time, that gives about 24 m of working thread, or roughly 48 lengths of 50 cm.
- Gavanti, rule of thumb: allow about 2½ times the length of the line, plus about 10 cm for each start and end. Both passes cover the line, front and back.
- Menthe, rule of thumb: on 14-count Aida, one 50 cm length of 2 strands makes very roughly 50 crosses.
- The reliable way: stitch one buti, count the lengths you used, and multiply by the number of repeats. Add 10–20% for joins and mistakes.
The rules of thumb are estimates. Tension, stitch size and how you start and end all change the amount. Test before buying for a large piece.
Fabric by skill stage
| Stage | Fabric | Why |
|---|---|---|
| First stitches | 14-count Aida | Blocks make counting easy |
| Garment practice | Net over garment cloth | Wearable cloth, removable grid |
| Traditional | Handloom cotton or khana | The real ground; counting threads |
| Heirloom and bridal | Fine handloom silk, classically black | The Chandrakali ground |
Sizes: counts to centimetres
| Fabric | Counts per cm | A 5 cm motif needs |
|---|---|---|
| 11-count Aida | about 4.3 | about 22 squares |
| 14-count Aida | about 5.5 | about 28 squares |
| 16-count Aida | about 6.3 | about 31 squares |
| 18-count Aida | about 7.1 | about 35 squares |
For other cloth: count the threads in 1 cm, divide by 2 (if you count over 2 threads), and multiply by the width you want.
Motif families
| Family | Examples | Usual association |
|---|---|---|
| Temple and ritual | Gopura, deepa, tulsi katte, asana, Nandi, conch | Devotion, purity, wisdom |
| Ceremony and home | Ratha, pallakki, cradle, flower pot | Celebration, life events |
| Animals and birds | Navilu, aane, jinke, parrot, swan | Beauty, strength, good fortune |
| Flowers and plants | Kamala, jasmine, cotton flower, cashew, almond | Purity, plenty |
Meanings are shared, traditional associations, not a fixed code.
Problems: quick answers
| Problem | Likely cause | Quick fix |
|---|---|---|
| Gaps in Gavanti | Miscount on pass 1 | Unpick the return; recount |
| Puckering | Stitches too tight | Ease from the back; use a hoop |
| Messy back | Thread carried across | End and restart; plan the route |
| Thread twisting | Long thread | Shorter lengths; let the needle hang |
| Split threads | Sharp needle | Use a tapestry needle |
| Motif stretched | Uneven cloth | Measure both directions; test square |
Full answers are in Module 7, Common problems, and how to fix them.
Care: quick answers
| Do | Don’t |
|---|---|
| Hand wash, cool water, mild soap | Machine wash or wring |
| Test colourfastness first | Wash dark grounds with other clothes |
| Dry flat, in the shade | Dry in direct sun |
| Iron from the back, with a pressing cloth | Iron straight onto the stitches |
| Store wrapped in cotton, refold every few months | Store in plastic, or with sharp folds |
For old or valuable pieces, ask a textile conservator before cleaning. More in Module 7, Caring for Kasuti.
Key dates
| When | What |
|---|---|
| c. 6th–12th century | Roots traditionally traced to the Chalukya era (inferred, not documented) |
| 17th century | Counted among the “64 arts” at the Mysore court (traditionally said) |
| Mid–late 20th century | Decline; a training centre set up in Hubballi |
| 2005–2006 | GI approved 2005; certificate issued 30 January 2006 |
| From about 2010 | Revival through cooperatives and NGOs |
Sources and uncertain points
- Strand and needle pairings are standard counted-thread practice; individual stitchers vary them.
- The 8 m skein length is typical of the common stranded-cotton brands; check the label.
- The Gavanti and Menthe thread estimates are rough rules of thumb worked out for this course, not measured standards.
- Early dates are traditional or inferred, as marked; see Module 1, How Kasuti grew: a timeline.
Check yourself
- How many strands and which needle would you use on 14-count Aida?
- Which two stitches are reversible?
- How long a tail do you leave at the start, and when do you stop to end?
- How many squares does a 5 cm motif need on 14-count Aida?