A Kasuti enterprise runs several teams or channels at once: work with clusters and cooperatives in north Karnataka, large orders for corporate gifts, hotels or retailers, online sales at volume, and perhaps export. Hand Kasuti cannot be speeded up by machines without stopping being hand Kasuti, so growth here means more trained hands, better planning and complete honesty. This lesson maps the rung; Kasuti as a Business (Volume 2), Modules 5 to 8, gives the methods.

What you’ll learn

  • The kinds of large Kasuti work an enterprise takes on.
  • How to work with clusters and cooperatives fairly and steadily.
  • How to plan volume without losing the craft.
  • What contracts, compliance and records large buyers expect.
  • The milestones that tell you a large company may be within reach.

What this rung looks like

  • Large orders: corporate gifts, wedding favours in hundreds, hotel and restaurant linen, retailer collections.
  • Cluster production: several artisan groups working to one spec (Volume 2, Working with clusters and cooperatives).
  • Online at volume: your own site and marketplaces, with stock planned by season.
  • Export: to overseas shops, galleries and importers (Volume 2, First steps to export and Finding buyers and shipping).
  • Kasuti-inspired lines, honestly labelled, alongside hand work (Volume 2, Volume without losing the craft).
  • Licensing your charts and motifs to other makers.

Managers and procedures

At this size you need managers for production, quality, sales and finance, and a local coordinator who speaks Kannada and knows the makers. Each repeated task has a written procedure: issuing cloth and thread, checking first pieces, final inspection of backs, packing and despatch.

Plan from the delivery date backwards

Count the hours. A large order of hand Kasuti needs: pieces × hours per piece = total embroidery hours. Divide by the hours your groups can really give, allowing for harvest, festivals and family events. If the date doesn’t fit, change the design (fewer Neyge areas, smaller motifs) or the date, never the honesty. Volume without losing the craft shows how to design for time.

Honest at volume

Machine-made and printed work sold as Kasuti harms makers and buyers. Name each route truthfully: hand-worked Kasuti, Kasuti-inspired machine work, printed Kasuti motifs (Module 12 of this course, Mass production, done honestly).

What success looks like
  • Large orders delivered on time, to the approved sample, and re-ordered.
  • Partner groups get steady, fairly paid work year after year.
  • Every label tells the truth about how the piece was made.
  • Managers solve most problems without you.
  • Audits by buyers find fair pay, safe work and no child labour.
Skills to add
  • Leading managers and coordinators.
  • Production planning across many groups.
  • Running design workshops with artisans (Volume 2, Working with clusters and cooperatives).
  • Quoting for large orders by method.
  • Export paperwork and buyer standards.
  • Using data: hours by design, on-time delivery by group, returns by reason.
Money and time, as a method
  • Order cost = N pieces × (materials + hours × rate per grade + finishing) + set-up (design workshop, samples, charts) + coordination and transport + group overheads.
  • Working capital: materials and advances you pay before the buyer pays you. Estimate it for each order and the days between paying and being paid.
  • Channel profit: money in – (cost of goods + fees + returns + selling costs), per channel.
  • Funding to ask about: bank loans, schemes from the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) and the state, and partners. Schemes open and close; ask what is open now.
People and systems
  • People: managers, coordinators, quality checkers, trainers, and the artisans in each group.
  • Fair pay: rates per grade agreed openly; part payment in advance; payment records kept for each maker; no child labour (Volume 2, Fair to the makers, honest to the buyers).
  • A training pipeline so new embroiderers can join and move up.
  • Systems: a production plan; spec sheets and signed samples; issue and return records for cloth and thread; quality records; secure accounts and data.
Marketing and sales
  • B2B: a catalogue showing capacity, product range, quality process and maker stories; samples; prompt quotes.
  • Trade fairs for gifts, home and handicrafts, in India and abroad.
  • Export catalogue with specs and lead times (Volume 2, First steps to export).
  • Retail: one brand look across site, marketplaces and exhibitions.
  • Account managers for large buyers.
Questions for your CA, lawyer or the office
  • CA: “Does my business form still suit a business of this size?”
  • CA: “How should payments to cooperatives and self-help groups, advances and working capital be recorded?”
  • Lawyer: “What should contracts with large buyers, artisan groups and licensees say about specs, delays, rejections and payment?”
  • Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) and KSHDC: “Which schemes for design, training and marketing are open now?”
  • DGFT and the Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts (EPCH): “What do I need to export handicrafts?”
Risks and mistakes
  • Accepting a date the hours cannot meet.
  • Squeezing groups on rates, which pushes them to shortcuts or machine work.
  • One buyer is most of your business.
  • Batches that don’t match the sample. Check first pieces early.
  • Unclear labels on Kasuti-inspired lines.
  • Running out of cash while waiting to be paid.
Ready for the next rung?

A large company may be within reach when most of these are true:

  • A leadership team runs the business day to day without you.
  • Several groups produce to one standard, with written procedures.
  • Several large buyers re-order, and no single one dominates.
  • Your accounts are audited and your contracts reviewed.
  • You have passed buyer audits on fair pay.
  • Your brand is known beyond Karnataka.
  • Lenders or investors are interested, and you understand what they would expect.
Worked example

A made-up example. A Kasuti brand is asked for several hundred framed motifs as corporate gifts. The owner counts the hours and finds three groups could do it only by a later date. She offers the buyer a smaller motif with more Gavanti and less Neyge, which keeps it hand-worked and fits the date. She runs a one-day design workshop with the groups, agrees rates per grade with an advance, and leaves a signed sample with each. A coordinator checks first pieces. One group’s thread lot is a shade off, so it is replaced early. The order ships on time; every frame carries a card naming the groups and the region.

Check yourself
  • Do I count embroidery hours before agreeing a date?
  • Are rates per grade agreed openly with every group?
  • Is every product labelled truthfully?
  • Do I know the working capital each order needs?
  • Are our contracts in writing and checked by a lawyer?