Elastic casing

1. Cut the waist edge with a casing allowance: elastic width + 1 cm ease + 1 cm turn-under.
2. Press the turn-under, then fold the casing to the inside and press.
3. Stitch close to the lower fold, leaving a 4 cm gap at a side or back seam.
4. Thread the elastic with a safety pin, pinning the free end to the trouser so it does not vanish.
5. Overlap the ends 2.5 cm and zigzag them together in a square.
6. Close the gap, stretch the waist to spread the gathers, and stitch through the casing at each side seam to stop the elastic twisting.

Nada casing

1. Before folding the casing, make two small buttonholes at centre front, about 2 cm apart, in the area that will be the outer layer of the casing (or the inner, if the nada ties inside).
2. Fold, press and stitch the casing as above, but all round with no gap.
3. Thread the nada with a nada needle from one hole round to the other.
4. Even the ends, add latkans if wanted, and knot or bind the ends so they do not fray.

Teacher to check. Module 6, Waistbands, has the full sewing steps with diagrams.

• Cords can catch on playground slides, bus doors and bicycle wheels. For young children, avoid long waist drawstrings; use elastic instead.
• Several standards set limits. For example, the European and UK standard BS EN 14682 (cords and drawstrings on children’s clothing) and the US standard ASTM F1816 (drawstrings on children’s upper outerwear) limit free ends and forbid toggles or knots on some cords. Check the current version of each before making clothes to sell.
• Common good practice: keep any waist drawstring ends short when the waist is relaxed; no toggles, beads or knots on the ends; bar-tack the drawstring at centre back so it cannot be pulled out on one side.
• Latkans on children’s trousers: keep them short, light and firmly attached, or leave them off for under-threes (small parts can be choking hazards).
• India: check whether any BIS standard applies to the children’s clothing you sell.
• See Module 1, Children’s clothing safety standards, and Module 3, Children’s trousers: safety.

1. Elastic plus nada: a narrow elastic in the casing with a nada beside it keeps a salwar up when the nada loosens.
2. Self-fabric nada: cut a 4 cm bias or straight strip, fold in quarters lengthwise and edge-stitch. It lies flat and does not dig in.
3. Stop the nada vanishing in the wash: stitch it to the casing at centre back with a few hand stitches.
4. Pre-wash elastic by soaking it in hot water; some elastics shrink or relax slightly.
5. Never iron elastic hot; it loses stretch. Press casings before inserting it.
6. Half-elastic waist: a flat front waistband with elastic only at the back gives the tailored look with comfort.
7. Buttonhole elastic: sew a button inside each side of the waistband; loop the elastic onto the button at the right hole as the child grows.
8. Ribbed non-roll elastic stays flat through the day; braided elastic often twists in a wide casing.
9. Latkans that last: stitch them through the nada end and bind with thread, rather than tying them on.
10. For older or arthritic hands, elastic or a nada with a toggle (adults only) is easier than a small knot.
11. What professionals do differently: they stitch-in-the-ditch through the casing at side seams so the elastic never rolls or twists, and they label nada-or-elastic on the order slip.

The elastic twists inside the casing

1. Straighten it, then stitch through casing and elastic at each side seam.
2. Replace braided elastic with non-roll.
3. Prevention: make the casing only about 1 cm wider than the elastic.

The elastic has gone slack after many washes

1. Open a small gap, pull out a loop, cut and overlap it shorter.
2. Replace it completely with fresh elastic.
3. Prevention: cotton-covered or good woven elastic; cool washes; no hot iron.

The waist digs in and leaves marks

1. Lengthen the elastic by 2–3 cm.
2. Change to a wider, softer elastic.
3. Prevention: fit the elastic on the body, snug but not tight.

The nada keeps coming undone

1. Change a slippery polyester cord for cotton cord, which grips.
2. Add a narrow elastic in the casing as a backup.
3. Prevention: cotton or self-fabric nadas for daily wear.

The nada pulled out of the casing

1. Rethread with a nada needle or a large safety pin.
2. Bar-tack it at centre back.
3. Prevention: always anchor the nada at centre back.

The latkans fell off in the wash

1. Resew them through the nada end and bind with thread.
2. Remove them before washing if they are delicate.
3. Prevention: sew, do not tie; choose washable latkans for daily wear.

The child’s trousers slip down

1. Tighten the buttonhole elastic by one hole.
2. Add a narrow elastic inside a standard waistband.
3. Prevention: adjustable waists for every child’s trouser.

• Mistake: cutting elastic to the full waist measurement; the trouser falls down.
• Mistake: sewing through braided elastic; it loses stretch.
• Mistake: a casing too narrow for the elastic or the nada; nothing will thread.
• Myth: a nada is old-fashioned. It adjusts to any body, any day, including pregnancy, and is easy to replace.

1. Beginner: make three elastic test loops (braided, knitted, woven) and compare their stretch and width.
2. Improver: sew a nada casing with two buttonholes on a sample strip and thread a self-fabric nada.
3. Confident: make a children’s waist with buttonhole elastic and buttons, and a pair of latkans for an adult nada.

As a hobby: elastic and nada waists make quick, satisfying first trousers.

For earning: replacing tired elastic and making festive latkans are small, quick jobs. Latkans in matching colours are a pleasing extra for festive sets.

For teaching: a pyjama with an elastic or nada waist is a classic first trouser project for children and adults alike.

• Wash elastic-waist trousers in cool water; hot water and hot drying weaken elastic.
• Remove heavy or delicate latkans before washing.
• Knot or bind nada ends to stop fraying.

• Can you name five kinds of elastic and a use for each?
• Can you fit elastic on the body and cut it to length?
• Can you make a nada casing with an opening?
• Do you know the drawstring safety points for children?

Quiz

1. Which elastic narrows when stretched? Answer: braided.
2. How long should a nada be? Answer: the casing measurement plus about 50–75 cm for tying.
3. What are latkans? Answer: decorative ends on a nada.
4. Why bar-tack a child’s drawstring at centre back? Answer: so it cannot be pulled out to one long side.

• Casing: a tunnel of cloth holding elastic or a cord.
• Nada (naada, izarband): a waist drawstring.
• Latkan: a decorative drop on a nada end.
• Nada needle, bodkin: a long flat needle for threading cords.
• Non-roll elastic: ribbed elastic that stays flat.
• Buttonhole elastic: elastic with holes for adjustment.
• Half-elastic waist: flat front, elastic at the back.

• Main source: D&D’s own trousers ebook, chapter 42, widened to Indian waists from general tailoring practice.
• The Kannada term laadi for a nada is reported in common use; studio to check.
• Elastic widths, lengths and nada lengths are working ranges; teacher to check.
• BS EN 14682 and ASTM F1816 are named as examples; their limits change between versions, so the lesson gives no figures.