Pocket bags: from 1 in (2.5 cm) above the opening to about 4 in (10 cm) below it, and wide enough for a hand: 6–7 in (15–18 cm). Adjust for phones, which are now longer than many pocket bags. Construction is in Module 6, Pockets.

1. Decide the finished turn-up depth: 1 1/2 in (4 cm) is common for men; 1 1/4–1 3/4 in (3–4.5 cm) is the usual range.
2. Below the finished hem line, add: turn-up depth 1 1/2 in, inner fold 1 1/2 in, and a 1 1/4 in (3 cm) hem. Total added: 4 1/4 in (11 cm).
3. Fold the paper up along each fold line in turn, as it will be pressed, and cut along the leg seams while folded. The seams then match the leg when turned up, even on a tapered leg.
4. Unfold. The side seam and inseam below the hem now step in and out: that is correct.

Turn-ups suit straight and gently tapered legs in medium to heavy cloth. On a strongly tapered leg they pull; on a flared leg they splay.

• Side adjusters instead of belt loops: extend the band 2 in (5 cm) past the side seam on each side for the adjuster tabs.
• Extended waistband tab: lengthen the left tab to 3 in (7.5 cm) and pointed, with a button.
• Curtained waistband: line the inside of the band with a separate strip that hangs below it; cut it 2 in (5 cm) deeper than the band.
• Separate fly facing: instead of a cut-on extension, cut a J-shaped facing 2 in (5 cm) wide and 8 in (20.5 cm) long. Better for thick or patterned cloth.
• Button fly: make the extension 1 3/4 in (4.5 cm) wide and space 4 or 5 buttons about 1 1/2 in (4 cm) apart.
• Kurta pyjama and casual trousers: no fly at all; use a nada or elastic waist (see Indian drafts: churidar on the bias and kurta pyjama).

1. Cut the fly extension on the pattern, not freehand on the cloth; fly widths must match exactly.
2. Mark the zip stop with a notch on both fronts.
3. Split back bands save alterations for years; tell customers why their waistband has a seam at the back.
4. Taper let-out allowances smoothly; a sudden step shows through the cloth after pressing.
5. Use the fold method for every turn-up and deep hem.
6. Professionals add a little seat let-out on the inseam too: 3/4 in (2 cm) at the crotch tapering to 3/8 in at the knee.
7. Check the band length against the trouser waist, not the body: the band includes the ease.
8. Interface the waistband on paper: note the interfacing piece and its width.
9. Place back pockets after the toile; a pocket in the wrong place cannot be moved later.
10. Allow for phones: agree pocket bag depth with the customer.

Fly gapes open

Cause: zip too long for the rise, or tight across the front hip.

1. Shorten the zip so the stop sits above the crotch curve.
2. Add front hip room at the side seams.
3. Prevention: check zip length against the CF on the pattern.

Fly shield shows

Cause: shield too wide, or the left fly extension too narrow.

1. Trim the shield to 1 1/4 in (3 cm) finished.
2. Widen the left extension to 1 1/2 in.
3. Prevention: draft both from the same CF line.

Waistband too tight after sewing

Cause: band drafted to the body, not the trouser waist.

1. Let out at the CB seam using the allowance.
2. Re-cut the band with the trouser waist measurement.
3. Prevention: measure the pattern waist without darts.

CB seam shows a bump where the allowance tapers

Cause: the allowance changes width suddenly.

1. Trim the allowance to a smooth taper.
2. Press it open over a ham.
3. Prevention: draw the taper with a ruler on the paper.

Turn-ups twist

Cause: cut without folding the paper on a tapered leg.

1. Recut the hem area with the fold method.
2. Tack the turn-up at side seam and inseam.
3. Prevention: always fold-and-cut turn-ups.

Back pocket points down at the side

Cause: placed level with the ground instead of parallel to the waist.

1. For new pieces, align the pocket parallel to the waistline.
2. On a made trouser, leave it; it cannot be moved cleanly.
3. Prevention: mark pockets from the waistline, not the hip line.

Side pocket bags show through

Cause: heavy pocketing in light cloth, or a bag too wide.

1. Use lighter pocketing.
2. Anchor the bag into the fly or CF seam (a “stay”).
3. Prevention: draft a front stay pocket for light cloths.

• Forgetting the right front’s small fold-back for the zip.
• Using a one-piece waistband on formal trousers; it cannot be let out.
• Myth: “The fly direction is a rule.” It is a convention; follow the customer’s wish.
• Myth: “Turn-ups are just a deep hem.” They need the fold-and-cut method.

1. Easy: add a fly extension and draft a fly shield at quarter scale.
2. Medium: draft both waistband halves full size for the worked example; check their lengths.
3. Medium: fold-and-cut a turn-up on paper for a tapered leg.
4. Hard: produce a full set of men’s trouser pattern pieces with all allowances, notches and labels.

As a hobby: a fly and split band are the step from “pyjama” to “trouser”. Make them once on a toile.

For earning: let-out allowances are what make men’s trousers alterable, and alterations are a steady part of tailoring work.

For teaching: show a ready-made formal trouser opened at the CB to reveal the allowance; then draft it.

• Label every piece: name, “cut 1” or “cut 2”, grain line, notches and seam allowances written.
• Keep the small pieces (shield, band halves) in an envelope with the block.

• Fly widths, zip lengths, band widths and pocket sizes are common tailoring figures; makers vary them.
• Lap direction (left over right for men) is a widely followed convention, not a standard.
• All figures for a D&D teacher to check.

1. Can you add a cut-on fly extension?
2. Can you draft both halves of a split waistband?
3. Do you know how wide the CB let-out allowance is, and where it tapers?
4. Can you fold-and-cut a turn-up?

• Fly extension: extra width at the CF that forms the fly.
• Fly shield: the folded strip behind the zip.
• Split waistband: a waistband in two halves, joined at the CB seam.
• Let-out allowance (inlay): extra seam allowance for later alteration.
• Turn-up (cuff): a folded band at the hem.