• Men’s dhoti pants: same steps on the men’s block; drop 8–10 in; front folds 3–4 in; elastic back, nada or hook front. Often worn with a short kurta or bandhgala.
• Children’s dhoti pants: child block; drop 3–4 in only; folds 1 1/2 in; fully elastic waist.
• Girls’ sharara and gharara: scale the flare: sharara about 30–36 in per leg; gharara lower section 2 1/2 times the knee. Keep it ankle length so children do not trip.
• Pre-stitched dhoti and panche-style wraps belong to the wrap family (Module 1, The family: dhoti, mundu, lungi and other wraps); draping is in Module 5.

• Dhoti pants: soft silk, cotton silk, rayon or georgette so the cowl falls.
• Sharara and gharara: georgette, chiffon, silk, net over lining; plan 4–6 m (4 1/2–6 1/2 yd) depending on width.
• Line sharp fabrics with soft cotton or crepe inside.
• Plan embellishment (gota, zari borders) before cutting: borders follow the hem.

• Dhoti pants are a stitched version of the draped dhoti and panche worn across India, especially by men. The stitched form became a popular Indo-western style for women and men in recent decades: the look of the drape, without the skill of draping. See Module 9, Transformation in Indian fashion.
• The gharara is widely associated with Muslim courtly dress in Awadh (Lucknow) and Hyderabad, and with wedding wear in parts of North India and Pakistan; histories differ in detail.
• The sharara is often described with the same roots; in today’s shops it covers many flared festive trousers.
• All three are now festive wear for weddings (mehendi, sangeet, reception) and festivals, often sold as sets with kurtas or short kurtis and dupattas.

• Cowl front without side extra: slash the front from the CF waist towards the knee and spread 8 in at the waist, for folds centred on the leg.
• Asymmetric dhoti pants: drape on one leg only; draft each half separately.
• Sharara with a yoke: a fitted hip yoke 6 in (15 cm) deep, with the flare starting below it, for less bulk at the waist.
• Short gharara: fitted to mid-thigh, then gathered, for a younger look.
• Men’s sharara-style pants: a recent fashion; use moderate flare (about 40 in per leg).

• Decide the border before cutting: a straight border suits the gharara band and the sharara hem only if the hem is a gentle curve; on deep curves, use flexible gota or embroidery placed after cutting.
• Heavy embellishment adds weight that pulls bias areas down: hang before hemming, and again after embellishment.
• Line with soft cotton or crepe, cut from the same pattern but 1 in (2.5 cm) shorter and with half the flare, so it does not show or add bulk.
• Place side-seam pockets before embellishment so motifs are not cut.

1. Drape the dhoti folds on the toile before fixing them on the pattern.
2. Lower the crotch with the stride test; too low catches.
3. Hang sharara and gharara hems 24 hours before levelling.
4. Use a border along the sharara hem to weight it.
5. Gather gharara sections in two rows of long stitches for even gathers.
6. Professionals add a separate lining cut narrower than the shell, so the shell floats.
7. Pockets in the side seam are welcome in festive trousers.
8. Keep the gharara band level: mark the knee line on the body at fitting.
9. Weight wide hems with horsehair braid for net.
10. Photograph the drape of each style for customers to choose from.

Dhoti folds hang flat

Cause: stiff cloth or too little extra width.

1. Add 2–4 in more at the side.
2. Use a softer cloth.
3. Prevention: drape on the toile.

Dhoti pants catch on steps

Cause: crotch too low.

1. Raise the crotch 2 in.
2. Narrow the inner leg.
3. Prevention: step test.

Sharara heavy at the waist

Cause: flare started at the waist.

1. Spread from the hip line, not the waist.
2. Lighter fabric.
3. Prevention: hinge at the hip.

Gharara band uneven

Cause: knee line not level.

1. Remark on the body and re-set.
2. Use a heavier band.
3. Prevention: mark at fitting.

Gathers bulky at the knee

Cause: too much cloth or thick fabric.

1. Reduce to 2 1/2 times the knee.
2. Use flared panels instead.
3. Prevention: sample the gather.

Hem drops unevenly

Cause: bias areas in the flare.

1. Hang and re-level.
2. Trim.
3. Prevention: hang before hemming.

Net scratches

Cause: unlined net.

1. Add a soft lining.
2. Bind inside seams.
3. Prevention: always line net.

• Fit in the shoes and with the dupatta or jewellery that will be worn; heavy dupattas pull the waist down on one side.
• Sit, kneel and dance in the toile: weddings mean floor-sitting at ceremonies and long hours of movement.
• Check the floor length on a hard floor and on a carpet or mat, if the event is on one.
• Dhoti pants: check the folds fall to the front of the leg, not to the side, and that the lowered crotch does not catch when climbing a stage step.
• Gharara: the knee band should sit just below the real knee so it does not ride up when walking.

• Taking names literally: show pictures.
• Too little fabric bought for a flared style.
• Myth: “Dhoti pants have no crotch.” They have a lowered one.

1. Easy: spread a quarter-scale wide leg into a sharara.
2. Medium: draft dhoti pants and test the folds on a toile.
3. Hard: make a gharara with a gota band.

As a hobby: a festive trouser for a family wedding is a proud project.

For earning: bridal and wedding-guest sharara and gharara sets are high-value orders; plan fittings.

For teaching: compare the three on one block to show how far a block can travel.

• Store festive pieces folded with tissue; do not hang heavy embellished hems.
• Keep patterns with photos of the made garments.

• Sharara and gharara names are used inconsistently; the descriptions here follow common current usage.
• The gharara is often linked with Lucknow and Hyderabad traditions; histories vary.
• All figures for a D&D teacher to check.

1. Can you lower a crotch for dhoti pants?
2. Can you spread a leg to 60 in?
3. Can you size a gharara lower section?
4. Do you agree style names using pictures?

• Cowl: soft folds falling from a draped edge.
• Gota: metallic ribbon trim.
• Sharara / gharara: festive wide trousers; see “Names first”.