Worked examples: woman waist 30 in (76 cm), hip 40 in (101.5 cm), length 39 in (99 cm); man trouser waist 34 in (86.5 cm), seat 40 in (101.5 cm), length 41 in (104 cm).

Fabrics: poly-viscose or terry-wool suiting, wool blends, cotton twill or chino, linen. Medium weight, with a firm weave that holds a crease. Avoid stretch on a first tailored trouser. To scale: on 58–60 in cloth most trousers fit in one leg length plus about 10 in (25 cm) for the band, fly shield and loops; on 44–45 in cloth allow two lengths (Module 2, How much fabric to buy).

From the tested women’s block (The women’s block: the framework and the front and The women’s block: the back, the checks and the toile).

1. Leg: the block’s straight leg (knee 9 / 10 in, hem 8 / 9 in, total 19 · 17 in), or the taper (17 · 14 in) from From the block: taper, flare and wide legs. Length 39 in (99 cm) in the shoes to be worn.
2. Darts: keep the front dart (3/4 in × 3 1/2 in on the crease) and the back dart (1 in × 5 in).
3. Fly: add the cut-on fly extension, 1 1/2 in (4 cm) wide beyond the centre front, from the waist down 7 1/2 in (19 cm), on the overlap side; add 1/2 in (1.3 cm) on the underlap side to the zip stop at 7 in (18 cm). Women’s trousers traditionally lap right over left; many now use the men’s direction. Choose one and keep it (The fly-front zip, step by step).
4. Slant pockets: the opening runs from 1 1/2 in (4 cm) in from the side at the waist to 7 in (18 cm) down the side seam. Draw the pocket facing (the piece behind the opening) 2 in (5 cm) beyond the line, and the bag 3–4 in (8–10 cm) below the opening and reaching the centre-front side of the dart, so it acts as a stay.
5. Back pocket (optional): a single or double welt, 5 in (12.5 cm) long, 2 1/2–3 in (6.5–7.5 cm) below the waist, parallel to it.
6. Waistband: straight, 1 1/4 in (3 cm) finished. Length = the pattern waist without darts, 31 in (79 cm), + 1 1/2 in (4 cm) underlap extension + 3/8 in (1 cm) at each end = 33 1/4 in (84.5 cm). Width = 2 × 1 1/4 in + 2 × 3/8 in = 3 1/4 in (8.5 cm).
7. Belt loops: 5, each 3/8 in (1 cm) wide finished, 2 1/2 in (6.5 cm) long (band width + 1 1/4 in).

From the tested men’s block (The men’s block) with the details from Men’s block details: fly, split waistband and turn-ups.

1. Leg: the block (knee 20 in, hem 18 in total) or slim (18 · 15 in). Length 41 in (104 cm).
2. Front: flat, no dart. Back: one dart 3/4 in (2 cm) × 4 1/2 in (11.5 cm).
3. Fly: left front, cut-on extension 1 1/2 in (4 cm) wide from the waist down 7 1/2 in (19 cm), curving into the centre front; right front, 1/2 in (1.3 cm) fold-back to the zip stop. Fly shield: 3 in × 8 1/2 in (7.5 × 21.5 cm), folded to 1 1/2 in, lower end curved. J-stitch line 1 1/4 in (3 cm) from the centre front.
4. Side-seam pockets: opening 6 1/2 in (16.5 cm), starting 1 1/2 in (4 cm) below the waist. Bag 7 in (18 cm) wide, from the waist to 4 in (10 cm) below the opening: about 12 in (30.5 cm) deep.
5. Back double welts: 5 1/2 in (14 cm) long, 3 in (7.5 cm) below the waist, parallel to it, centred on the dart; lips 3/16 in (5 mm).
6. Split back waistband: two halves, each 17 1/2 in + 1 1/2 in (centre-back let-out) + 1 1/2 in (tab on the left, underlap on the right) = 20 1/2 in, + 3/8 in (1 cm) at the front end. Finished width 1 1/2 in (4 cm); cut 3 3/4 in (9.5 cm) wide.
7. Let-out allowances: centre back 1 1/2 in (4 cm) at the waist tapering to 3/8 in (1 cm) at the seat line; inseam 3/4 in (2 cm) at the crotch tapering to 3/8 in at the knee.
8. Belt loops: 7, each 1/2 in (1.2 cm) wide finished, 2 3/4 in (7 cm) long.

5/8 in (1.5 cm) at side seams and inseams (men’s let-outs as above); 3/8 in (1 cm) on the front crotch curve and the waist edge; 1 1/2 in (4 cm) at the hem, folded and cut so it mirrors the leg; 3/8 in on pocket pieces and the band. Notch everything: hip or seat line, knee, pocket ends, zip stop, centre-front and centre-back on the band.

A standard method: a D&D teacher checks the figures before you rely on them.

1. Pre-shrink the suiting: steam it all over with a damp cloth, or have it dry-cleaned or shrunk as the cloth needs (Module 2, Shrinkage, pre-washing and lining).
2. Check for nap or sheen: hold the cloth up both ways in daylight. If it looks different, lay every piece heading the same way and allow about 0.2 m more.
3. Lay out on the fold, crease lines parallel to the selvedge. Cut the waistband along the selvedge if you can; it is stable.
4. Cut the small pieces: fly shield, belt-loop strip (2 in × 24 in, 5 × 61 cm, on the lengthwise grain), pocket facings and welt strips in fashion cloth; pocket bags in pocketing; interfacing for the band, the fly extension, the welt areas and the pocket-opening stays.
5. Mark: snip notches; thread-trace the dart points, welt lines, J-stitch line and crease lines with tacking (chalk rubs off suiting).

Steps 1–6 of the basic tailored order (Order of construction: basic and pull-on trousers). Everything here is done on flat pieces.

1. Stay and interface. Stay-stitch the waist and the front crotch. Fuse interfacing to the fly extension, the welt areas (1 in, 2.5 cm, larger than the opening all round) and a strip of stay tape along the slant-pocket edge or side-seam pocket opening.
2. Finish edges that will be pressed open: side seams, inseams, and, for men, the centre back.
3. Darts. Sew, tie off at the point, press over a ham towards the centre. Check: left and right identical.
4. Back welts (Single and double welt pockets). Mark the box on the interfacing; stitch the welts exactly end mark to end mark; check the rows are parallel and the same length; cut and clip into the corners; turn; secure the triangles; add the bag. Check: lips meet, corners square, no puckers. Make a test welt first.
5. Front pockets (Side-seam and slant pockets).
   Women’s slant: sew the pocket lining to the slant edge, understitch, turn and press; lay it on the facing-and-bag piece, sew round the bag; baste the top into the waist and the side into the side seam. Men’s side-seam: sew a bag piece to each side-seam allowance at the opening, press towards the front, then sew round the bag after the side seam (next lesson).
6. Baste the bags to the waist edge and the centre-front side, so they act as a stay and hold the front flat.

The next lesson goes on from here with the fly.

• Every piece is cut on grain, notched and thread-traced.
• The back welts have straight, even lips and square corners.
• The front pocket openings lie flat and do not gape on a flat front.
• The pocket bags are basted into the waist and do not show from outside.

1. Make a full test welt on scraps of the trouser cloth with the same interfacing.
2. Thread-trace in a contrast colour; it pulls out cleanly after pressing.
3. Use a 2 mm stitch for welts; it makes square corners easier.
4. Cut welt strips on the lengthwise grain so they do not stretch.
5. Press with a press cloth and a clapper on wool blends; the clapper sets a sharp edge without shine.
6. Extend the slant-pocket bag to the fly as a tummy stay; it holds a woman’s front flat.
7. Check phone size against the pocket bag; many bags are now too short (Module 4, Men’s block details: fly, split waistband and turn-ups).
8. Cut the band on the selvedge and use the selvedge as the inside edge: no overlocking.
9. Professionals sew all welts on all garments in one session; the hands remember.
10. Label every small piece with masking tape as you cut it.

The welt corners pucker

1. Clip right up to the last stitch at each corner, then press again.
2. Re-stitch the triangle closer to the fold.
3. Prevention: rows exactly the same length; cut the corners in one confident snip.

The welt lips gape or overlap

1. Hand-baste the lips closed with a diagonal stitch and press; leave the basting in until the trouser is done.
2. If they overlap, re-stitch one row 1/16 in (1.5 mm) closer.
3. Prevention: mark the stitching rows exactly 3/8 in apart.

The slant pocket gapes open

1. Fuse stay tape along the slant edge and ease the edge slightly onto it.
2. Tack the pocket closed at the waist edge.
3. Prevention: stay the edge before sewing; cut the facing on grain.

The pocket bag shows at the side seam

1. Roll the seam slightly to the inside and press.
2. Face the bag edge with fashion cloth where it can show.
3. Prevention: always use a facing of fashion cloth behind the opening.

The suiting shines after pressing

1. Steam lightly with a damp press cloth and brush the nap up.
2. A little white vinegar in the press-cloth water can lift shine on some wools.
3. Prevention: always press with a cloth, never directly.

The legs look a different shade

1. Check the nap: one leg was cut upside down. Re-cut it if there is cloth.
2. Use the odd leg for a matching pair of shorts.
3. Prevention: check the nap in daylight and lay all pieces the same way.

The welt is crooked

1. If the opening is not yet cut, unpick and re-stitch.
2. If cut, add a flap over it to hide the line.
3. Prevention: mark the welt line parallel to the waist from the pattern, not by eye.

• Other sizes: everything comes from your own tested block; the pocket and fly figures change little between sizes.
• Pleated front: turn the front dart into a single 1 1/4 in (3 cm) pleat towards the side, or add two pleats on the men’s block (Darts, pleats and yokes on paper).
• Jeans pockets: scoop front pockets and patch back pockets for chinos (Jeans front pockets and back patch pockets).
• Office and interview: plain suiting in navy, charcoal or grey, a pressed crease, worn with a shirt or blazer (Module 8, What to wear where).
• Indian formal: men’s suiting trousers under a bandhgala or Nehru jacket for receptions.
• Linen summer trouser: in Bengaluru’s heat, linen or cotton-linen with a half-elastic back (Waistbands: elastic, half-elastic, nada and adjustable).
• Teen school trousers: the same order with the teen’s block and adjustable elastic in the back band.

• The pattern details follow the book’s Module 4 figures, from standard tailoring practice. D&D has no method of its own here.
• Men’s block details: fly, split waistband and turn-ups gives the band cut at 3 3/8 in for a 1 1/2 in finish; this project uses 3 3/4 in, which allows 3/8 in at each edge. A teacher confirms which the studio uses.
• The women’s zip at 7 in sits close to where her centre front starts to curve (8 in down); check the zip stop on the toile and shorten the zip if needed.

1. Can you list every pattern piece of a tailored trouser?
2. Did you check the nap before cutting?
3. Can you sew a double welt with square corners?
4. Are all pockets made while the pieces are flat?
5. Do you know which way your fly will lap?