The Patiala, named after the city in Punjab, uses much more cloth, set in deep folds that hang from the waist to the ankle.

1. Main piece (one per leg, front and back together): about 40 in (101.5 cm) wide at the top, 40 in (101.5 cm) long, cut across the full cloth width.
2. Pleats: on the back and side half of the top, fold six pleats, each taking up 2 1/2 in (6.5 cm) of cloth (a fold about 1 1/4 in, 3 cm, deep), falling towards the back. The front half stays flat or lightly gathered. The pleated top of each leg comes to about 25 in (63.5 cm).
3. Kali (one per leg) on the inner leg: 12 in (30.5 cm) at the top, 4 in (10 cm) at the hem; the top of the kalis is shaped into the asan curve, as in the Punjabi salwar, at a depth of seated rise + 3 in = 14 in (35.5 cm).
4. Length: the folds take up length; cut the main piece to the ankle and let the pleats lift it slightly.
5. Patti (ankle band): 4 in (10 cm) deep finished, 16 in (40.5 cm) round, often with a button or loop opening. The leg is pleated or gathered into it.
6. Fabric: typically about 3–4 m of 44 in (112 cm) cloth for an adult, against about 2 1/2 m for a Punjabi salwar.

Patiala cuts vary most of all. A D&D teacher confirms the studio’s way before teaching it.

• Afghani salwar: fuller panels gathered into a narrow elasticated or banded ankle.
• Dhoti salwar: extra width on the front panel draped into cowl folds (see Indian drafts: dhoti pants, sharara and gharara).
• Tulip salwar: front panels overlap at the leg in a curved, petal-like line.
• Pathani salwar (men’s): a fuller men’s salwar, often with a deeper asan.
• Children’s salwar: same pieces, scaled to the child (hip 26: panel 8 1/2 in, kali 6 in, mohri 10 in); elastic instead of nada for young children.

Because kalis are tapered, two of them lie top-to-tail in a rectangle. With the panels laid beside them, a salwar uses almost the whole length of cloth with very little waste. This is one of India’s own zero-waste traditions; see Module 9, Other creative cutting methods.

1. On 44 in (112 cm) cloth, two panels fit side by side across the width at the top (12 + 12 = 24 in), with the two kalis laid top-to-tail beside them (10 + 3 = 13 in): 37 in, inside the width with room to spare.
2. One such row is one panel length, 41 1/2 in. Two rows (four panels, two kalis) need about 83 in (2.1 m).
3. Add the nada if it is cut from the same cloth, and about 4 in (10 cm) for straightening: about 2 1/4–2 1/2 m.
4. Wider cloth or a narrower mohri can save a row; lay it out on paper to see.

This is why the salwar was traditionally so economical: rectangles and tapers, very little waste.

• Tie the nada at the natural waist; the salwar should not pull at the crotch when the wearer sits cross-legged on the floor, as many do at home, in temples and at functions.
• The mohri should rest on the ankle bone, or just above for a shorter, modern look.
• With a long kurta, a slimmer salwar (smaller kalis) balances better; with a short kurti, a full Patiala.
• Check the back in a mirror: the back panel’s extra inch should stop it pulling down when seated.

1. Cut kalis top-to-tail to save cloth.
2. Mark the top of each kali; they are easily sewn upside down.
3. Lower the asan for a looser, more traditional salwar; raise it for a modern fit.
4. Use a wide nada (or a flat cord) so it does not cut in.
5. Add a small elastic section at the back of the nefa for comfort.
6. Face the mohri with a strip of cloth for a neat finish and strength.
7. Professionals press pleats of a Patiala before stitching the nefa.
8. Match the kurta length: long kurtas suit slimmer salwars.
9. Soft cotton, rayon and crepe drape best; stiff cloth stands out.
10. Write piece names in Hindi or the local term as well as English for studio staff.

Salwar too tight at the crotch

Cause: asan too shallow.

1. Deepen the asan by 1 in.
2. Lengthen the back extension 1/2 in.
3. Prevention: rise + 2 in for the asan.

Too bulky at the waist

Cause: kalis too wide at the top.

1. Narrow the kali top to 8 in.
2. Use a thinner fabric.
3. Prevention: match fullness to the fabric.

Mohri too tight

Cause: mohri less than heel-to-instep.

1. Add a side slit with a button.
2. Widen panel hems.
3. Prevention: check against heel-to-instep.

Legs twist

Cause: kali off grain.

1. Recut with the kali centre on grain.
2. Press seams carefully.
3. Prevention: draw grain lines on all pieces.

Patiala pleats fall open

Cause: pleats not pressed or stitched.

1. Press, then tack pleats into the nefa.
2. Use crisper cotton.
3. Prevention: mark pleats with notches.

Salwar too short at the back

Cause: back not raised.

1. Raise the back top by 1 in.
2. Lengthen the back asan.
3. Prevention: sit test.

Nada bunches

Cause: too much gather for the nada.

1. Reduce fullness.
2. Use a flatter nada.
3. Prevention: top about 1 1/2–2 times the hip.

• Using the trouser block for a salwar: too fitted.
• Myth: “Salwars have no pattern.” They have precise measurements, often in a tailor’s head.
• Myth: “Patiala is just a wide salwar.” Its pleats and band are what define it.

1. Easy: draft the salwar pieces at quarter scale.
2. Medium: lay out the pieces on a paper “cloth” 44 in wide to scale.
3. Medium: sew a child’s salwar.
4. Hard: sew an adult Patiala in cotton.

As a hobby: a salwar is forgiving and comfortable, a good first Indian garment.

For earning: salwar suits are everyday tailoring work in India; a quick, consistent draft matters.

For teaching: teach the names of the parts in the local language alongside English.

• Keep salwar pieces as one labelled set with the customer’s card.
• Note the nada type and length.

• The Punjabi and Patiala layouts are common forms of standard Indian tailoring practice; tailors vary them widely.
• The word “asan” is used differently by different tailors (some mean the depth, some the curve).
• The Patiala’s link to the Patiala royal court is widely reported; details vary.
• All figures for a D&D teacher to check.

1. Can you name the five parts of a salwar?
2. Can you check that the mohri adds up?
3. Do you know how deep to make the asan?
4. Can you plan Patiala pleats?

• Kali: a tapered side piece in a salwar.
• Asan: the crotch depth and curve.
• Nefa: the nada casing.
• Mohri / poncha: the ankle opening.
• Patti: the ankle band of a Patiala.